The US Navy CPO Shirt - That shirt you love so much is a homage to this shirt

What Is a CPO Shirt?

The CPO shirt (short for Chief Petty Officer shirt) was first introduced by the U.S. Navy in the 1930s. Issued by the Naval Clothing Factory at the Brooklyn Navy Yard, it was designed as a rugged wool overshirt for cold, wet conditions at sea. Built to layer over uniforms, it became standard issue for Chief Petty Officers and, during World War II, spread throughout the fleet.

Key Features of a Vintage CPO Shirt

If you’ve seen a modern “shacket” or overshirt, you’ve seen the CPO’s influence. But the originals had specific details:

Material: Heavy navy-blue melton wool (warm even when wet).

Design: Early WWII versions had a single chest pocket with a scalloped flap.

Hardware: Dark buttons embossed with an anchor.

Label: “Naval Clothing Factory” tags with space for a sailor’s name.

Later civilian versions often used lighter fabrics or different colors, but the DNA is unmistakable.

From Surplus to Style Icon

After WWII, thousands of surplus CPO shirts flooded Army-Navy stores. Workers, students, and outdoorsmen adopted them for their warmth and durability. By the 1960s, American brands were producing CPO-style overshirts in plaids, cotton, and blends. Today, the silhouette lives on in countless overshirts and shackets, proof of the Navy’s lasting impact on menswear.

How to Spot a True Vintage CPO Shirt

When shopping for vintage:

Look for very dark navy wool (almost black).

Check if it has the single chest pocket to date (WWII-era detail).

Confirm anchor-embossed buttons.

WWII Era authentic tags will read “Naval Clothing Factory”, “Naval Clothing Depot”, or “Naval Supply Office”.

These details separate a true vintage CPO shirt from later civilian copies.

CPO Shirts Today

The CPO shirt is more than just vintage military clothing. It’s the blueprint for modern overshirts, showing how design born from function can stay timeless. Whether you wear one for style or history, you’re carrying on a piece of Navy heritage that shaped everyday fashion.